By Zoe Bator
With the sprouting up of so many new places and neighborhoods in the huge radius residents call the DFW metroplex, our landscape is constantly evolving, but the shiny allure of the new isn’t always better. Luckily, the historic row of vintage-style homes on Swiss Avenue and its surrounding area of Lower Greenville combines the old and new in a refreshing way that both a tourist and a local can appreciate.
The area hosts a handful of Dallas’s quintessential spots. However, there are more newly erected restaurants and shops eagerly awaiting to see if they can capture the acclaim of the community. Only a 4-minute drive from the century-old mansions on Swiss, Lower Greenville comprises a long strip of old and new bars, small businesses, and boulangeries. It’s only a dozen or so minutes from true downtown Dallas and acts as a quaint little respite for the Sunday brunch family.
Greenville Avenue is one of those places where it just feels like the sun shines brighter. Maybe it has to do with its stark contradiction to the construction-heavy skyline, or maybe it has to do with the tranquil atmosphere, but it feels like the air is crisper, and the trees blow more authentically in the wind.
Since the early 20th century, Lower Greenville has held paramount importance to the way the city is shaped. It used to serve as a route for residents to get to downtown, but around the 1930s it became a destination in and of itself. It maintained this status as a popular gathering spot when the Granada Theater was built nearby in the late ‘40s. Although its popularity dwindled around the 1970s, by the 1980s, investors recognized the potential of Greenville — with investor Lou Reese appropriately naming the area ‘Lower Greenville’, as in the southside of Greenville Avenue.
Bars sprouted up on the strip, and young people started to migrate to the area to be close to the action. One of the reasons the area is so special to me is because it’s closely tied to my parents and their relationship. When I went this time around, I took my mom to get her perspective on what’s changed, what’s stayed the same, hoping that she might pay for my snack because yes, the area is gentrified, and I can’t afford a $20 breakfast.
After easy parking behind the main strip of businesses, it was time to walk. It was Sunday, a.k.a. brunch o-clock, and one establishment had a line out the door with kids running amuck, antsy with post-Sunday school jitters, and parents eagerly awaiting the moment they could sit and enjoy a mimosa. Across the street was a rooftop bar, standing idly and recovering from the previous Saturday night debauchery.
My mom and dad had their engagement party here in 2000. She said it had not changed much, but some of the businesses around were unfamiliar to her — like the overpriced boho tchotchke shop across the street. After reflecting on the past, we looked to the present — to one of Greenville’s newest successes: artisanal bakery Carte Blanche.
The heavy wooden doors led into the sleekest bakery I had ever seen. As the only place in Texas to have a Forbes 5-star rating, Carte Blanche takes its croissants pretty seriously. Every bakery item was a work of art. From the flavor profile to the presentation, Chef Amy LaRue combines expertise and care into the tastiest package with both her sweet and savory handheld creations.
“One thing that particularly surprised me about the place was the prices. Nowadays, even food that’s bad is expensive. But most of the croissants and coffees here are all under five dollars,” Callan Whitman, first-time diner at Carte Blanche, said.
In a hyper-expensive area, it was heartening to see that the bakery was making a thoughtful effort not to price-gouge its customers. The affordability feat coupled with the artful tastiness of each item makes Carte Blanche a real standout.
After indulging in some flaky sweets, the next stop was Swiss Avenue to gawk at the antique estates, playing the ‘which house would you want?’ game. The fresh air blew along a street so wide that two semi-trucks could drive opposite each other. Each home possessed an elongated front porch which set the viewer far enough away to take in every fixture, window and ornamentation. Tudor, Prairie, Craftsman, Georgian and more styles lined the street — a real who’s who of architectural styles.
Passing many French bulldogs and bassinets, we approached the most notable house on Swiss. It’s not famous for its edifice, but rather for its proprietor. This German-style mansion was built for Carrie Marcus Neiman, co-founder of Neiman Marcus, in 1913.
The home has all of the charm of a pre-WWI place that’s undoubtedly haunted. And, I would live there in a heartbeat. It is, however, currently occupied. Resting at the end of the street, the home is a precursor for the rest of the grandeur on the avenue.
A few minutes away was the area’s local antique mall: City View Antiques. Looking for something used, the older women tending the store watched as I carefully navigated the narrow rows of eccentricities. There was no shortage of kitsch: virtually every type of collectible was represented.
“This is a great price!” Debbie, the woman checking me out, ascertained. “The man that runs this booth has been a collector for 50 years.”
Driving home with my new antique — however oxymoronic that sounds — trinket box and half of an uneaten croissant, I felt like I saw Dallas through a new lens. Regardless of if you prefer the modern to the vintage classic, I highly recommend taking the time to visit these slew of spots on your next lazy Sunday in the 214.
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Carte Blanche Bakery is located at 2114 Greenville Ave, Dallas, TX 75206. Their hours are currently Friday/Saturday 7am-12pm and Sunday 8am-1pm.
Neiman Marcus house is located at 5803 Swiss Ave, Dallas, TX 75214. It is a private residence and is closed to the public.
City View Antiques is located at 6830 Walling Ln, Dallas, TX 75231. Their hours are Monday-Friday 10am-5pm and Saturday/Sunday 10am-5:30pm.
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